Like Dubrovnik, Split oozes culture and history from every pore (or street corner) and feels like it could be Dubrovnik’s hip and happening cousin. If Dubrovnik were a luscious full-bodied red wine, Split would be a mojito topped with a splash of prosecco. Make sense?
The streets of Split, especially in the heart of Diocletian’s Palace and along the waterfront, are buzzing with activity all day and all night. When we visited in June, Croatia played against Portugal in the European Championship and bars were full to the brim with soccer fans from Croatia and around the world. The energy spilled out onto the streets and was almost contagious. I couldn’t care less about a sport that often ends in nil-nil after 90 minutes, but I was almost (and I mean only almost) tempted to join in on the rowdy festivities.
We traveled to Split from Dubrovnik by ferry (schedules available here) and booked directly with the ferry operator. If you are planning on traveling by ferry around Croatia during the peak summer months I would highly recommend that you book your seat in advance as it gets bus. Also make sure you arrive at the port at least 45 minutes to an hour in advance so you can nab a good seat!
We had 3 nights in Split and although we had bought a return ticket for the ferry back to Dubrovnik, we opted to forfeit the ticket and rent a car to drive back along the Dalmatian coast instead. Best. Decision. Ever! The ferry ride took longer than scheduled (nearly 5 hours with minimal views), and the drive back only took us about 6 hours with a fun little pit stop in a wonderful little town named Brela. Views like this made the long drive worth it!
Note: Some places in Split accept Euro but most places only accept the Croatian Kuna, so either withdraw some when you arrive or exchange some money in town. 1 USD = approx 6.7 Kuna.
Where to stay in Split
As we only had 3 nights in Split, we wanted to stay in the heart of the city and booked ourselves into Studios MK. I cannot recommend this place enough. The room was newly renovated and cozy, and our host went above and beyond to provide us with recommendations for places to visit in the area. Click here to book your stay at Studios MK!
Booking tip: Only have a few days in Split? Make sure you stay within the city center so that you can explore Diocletian’s Palace and easily reach the pier and beaches. Click here to check rates and availability for other hotels in Split’s city center!
If you’re wondering how much time you should spend in Split, Croatia, I would recommend staying for somewhere between 3-6 nights.
The best things to see and do in Split
1. Explore Diocletian’s Palace
Split is an extremely walk-able city and your best bet is to get lost down the narrow passageways and tucked away gardens. The Diocletian’s Palace forms a labyrinth through the heart of the city and ruins from a time gone by can be found as you weave your way through the streets. The Palace was built by Roman emperor Diocletian at the turn of the 4th century AD and was built from white stone and marble, much of which was imported from Italy and Greece. Don’t be surprised if you spot a sculpture of a sphinx here and there!
2. Climb the Bell Tower
I have a love/hate relationship with bell towers because of my fear of heights, but the view is almost always 100% worth it. It costs 20 Kuna to climb the tower and while I’ve climbed towers taller than this in Verona and Florence, the rickety metal sheet steps once you approach the top left me feeling exposed and shaky. Once we got to the top, the bells started ringing and I damn near had a panic attack. Nevertheless, the bell tower is a relatively cheap and easy way to look across the old town of Split and the Adriatic.
The Klis Fortress dates back to the 7th century and has now become increasingly popular thanks to Game of Thrones. The fortress played an important role in the military defense of Croatia and sits atop a towering mountain with panoramic views across Split. The fortress is open every day and shuts at around 7 PM; now is the time to visit if you’re visiting Split! The number of visitors to Klis has soared, although when we visited in the late afternoon there were only 3 or 4 other people there. The fortress can be reached by bus in 15-20 minutes from the old town, or alternatively you can drive here easily. Entrance is 40 Kuna for adults.
4. Hit the beaches
There are some great beaches in Split, many of which are easily reached by foot or bicycle. Beach culture is strong in the area and so be prepared for busy shores, even on weekdays. We visited Firule beach and opted to swim on the rocky side of the shore where the water was crystal clear! More on Split’s beaches here.
I saved the best for last! Strictly not within Split, but Krka National Park is the perfect day trip destination from the city. We had initially wanted to visit Plitvice National Park, but turns out that it was way too far away from Split and Dubrovnik. So we “settled” on Krka, but quickly realized that we weren’t settling at all: Krka is absolutely mind-blowingly beautiful.
Getting there: There are a number of organized group tours that can take you there, but we opted to rent a car for the day (approx 40 Euros from Avax Car Rental) so that we could drive an hour to get there ourselves: that way, we had the flexibility to work around our own schedule and not someone else’s. It is incredibly easy to drive to Krka from Split, especially if you have access to Google Maps (or save the offline map directions). Just look for the “Lozovac” entrance which is where individual visitors can park their cars.
Once you arrive, tickets can be purchased at 110 Kuna per adult (prices vary throughout the year). You hop on a bus that takes you down a windy path to the main hiking trail, and from there you just follow the path to the Skradinski Buk. You can also go on separate boat excursions to the Roski slap and Visovac Island. Most of the hiking trail is, surprisingly, in the shade and very flat, so it’s not an exhausting trek at all! Expect the entire walk (with lots of photo snapping stops) to take about 90 minutes.
Once you’ve walked past the dozens of waterfalls and still rivers that are scattered across Krka National Park, you’ll reach the Skradinski buk, the largest waterfall and also the only one that is open to the public for swimming. Before we hopped into the freezing cold water, we had a mini picnic of cheese, salami, baguette bread, peaches and cherries that we picked up from the farmer’s market in downtown Split. Winning!
Krka is not to be missed if you’re visiting Split – trust me on this!
Where to eat and drink in Split
Zinfandel: I have to thank my friend Grace from The Tea Nomad for this recommendation! The people at Zinfandel are experts on wine and food pairings, and cooked up some of the most delicious food we had in Croatia.
Paradigma: If you love rooftop dining then this is the place for you. Incredible food, outstanding wine, out-of-this-world service. Definitely book a table in advance as this place is popular, and please don’t leave without trying the veal cheek!
4Coffee: after a few days of mediocre-slash-terrible coffee, I was in dire need of a good flat white. The coffee at 4Coffee is incredibly tasty and is a hidden gem located right outside Diocletian’s Palace.
Hvar and Brac are also popular day trip destinations from Split but unfortunately we ran out of time! Have you been? What are some of the other must-see places in Split? Comment and tell me all about it below!
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