Exploring Jaffna in Sri Lanka’s Far North: Here’s What To Expect

Very few tourists venture up to Jaffna in the Northern Province of Sri Lanka – is it worth a visit? Read on for my thoughts and experience, and the best places to visit in Jaffna.

I’ve been traveling to Sri Lanka for the past decade and only just made it up north to Jaffna this year. And I’m certainly not alone. On the surface, Jaffna may not seem like an obvious destination to visit in Sri Lanka.

It has yet to truly shake its association with the civil war, it’s not exactly the easiest of places to get to, tourism infrastructure is still developing, and it may not always earn a spot on the classic two or three week Sri Lanka itinerary for first time visitors.

But as I learned after finally exploring this vibrant city, Jaffna has a lot to offer intrepid travelers that they may not find elsewhere in Sri Lanka. You will find at least two temples on every single street (some even call it the City of Temples), it offers adventures to coral-filled islands and bustling local markets.

In fact, it may be the perfect place if you want to stray off the beaten path and experience Sri Lanka away from the crowds – in many places we were some of the only tourists wandering around. Read on for my Jaffna travel guide, including some of the best things to do in Jaffna, where to stay and my thoughts on if it’s worth visiting.

Quick tips for traveling to Sri Lanka

✈️ To get into Sri Lanka by air you will fly into Bandaranaike International Airport (airport code: CMB).

🛂 Visa requirements: Most visitors will need to apply for a Sri Lanka ETA (except for nationals of Singapore, Maldives and Seychelles) but this is easily done online via the official ETA website. More details on applying for the Sri Lanka e-visa/ETA here. I don’t usually recommend getting the visa-on-arrival in Sri Lanka because there are often long lines, and requires you to queue up again in the immigration line.

💱 Currency: The currency is the Sri Lankan Rupee (LKR), and the exchange rate varies from approximately 290-300 LKR: 1 USD or 300 LKR: 1 Euro as of October 2024 (this rate continues to be very volatile). There are plenty of places to exchange money in Sri Lanka and I recommend that you secure some Rupees before you head to Jaffna (perhaps in Colombo or Anuradhapura) as many ATMs that I saw were not working, did not accept foreign cards or shut. I recommend using Bank of Ceylon or Sampath Bank ATMs as they often accept foreign-issued ATM cards.

📱 Staying connected: Local SIM cards and data packages can be purchased at the airport in the arrivals area (after you pick up your luggage). You can buy a 30-day Sri Lanka SIM card from Mobitel here and top it up during your stay at any Food City supermarket or local Mobitel shop.

🚗 Getting around: The easiest way to travel around Sri Lanka is by car, especially if you are short on time. Most hotels can help you to book 1-way transfer your next destination, and I recommend asking them at least a day in advance though last-minute transportation arrangements are fairly common as well.

👚 Dress code: Sri Lankan society is still relatively modest and conservative. While the majority of people in Sri Lanka identify as Buddhist, a large proportion of the population in Jaffna is Hindu. In general, there is no need to cover your shoulders or knees (unless you are visiting a temple), but you should be mindful of your attire and adhere to cultural norms. I highly recommend that you bring a pair of socks for when you visit temples as the ground can get very hot, and shoes are not allowed to be worn inside.

💵 Tipping: In general there is no need to tip if your hotel or restaurant has included a service charge. However, a small tip is always appreciated by people in the service industry and tuk tuk drivers.

🛏️ Where to stay: There are a plethora of hotel options suiting every budget – click here for some of the best boutique and luxury hotels to stay at in Sri Lanka.

☀️ The best time to visit Jaffna: Jaffna is hot, really really hot. The temperature in November soared above 33-35 degrees Celsius (91-95 Fahrenheit). The region typically receives the most rainfall between October to January but this is also when the temperature dips to a more acceptable level. Many people recommend visiting around February/March or even December/January towards the end of rainy season. Tamil New Year is celebrated (typically a few days in April) and it is not uncommon for shops and restaurants to close during this time.

Visiting Sri Lanka? Click here for a full list of 12 things you should know before your trip to Sri Lanka as well as 15 things you should NOT do if you’re visiting the island!

How to get to Jaffna

Where is Jaffna in Sri Lanka? Jaffna is located in the Northern Province of Sri Lanka, approximately 400 kilometres by car north of Colombo – a solid 9 or 10 hour drive away. Surrounded by islands and only narrowly separated from India by the Palk Strait, Jaffna is home to the majority of Sri Lankan Tamils.

🚘 The most comfortable way to get to Jaffna would be by private car. An airport taxi from Bandaranaike International Airport to Jaffna used to cost approximately 65,000-70,000 LKR (US$230-240) though this rate may have since increased due to fuel scarcity and soaring petrol/diesel prices. That being said, many people are also likely to visit Jaffna after first spending a few days in Wilpattu, Kalpitiya or Anuradhapura rather than direct from Colombo.

🚂 It is also possible to take a train from Colombo to Jaffna which will take anywhere from 7-9 hours (assuming there are no delays).

✈️ There is a small international airport in Jaffna. Currently there are only twice-daily flights operated by IndiGo between Chennai and Jaffna.

You might also like: Click here for a list of important things to know before your Sri Lanka trip as well as the top things NOT to do if you’re visiting the island

Where to stay in Jaffna

Wondering how many days to spend in Jaffna? I recommend a few days at the beginning or end of your Sri Lanka itinerary – no more than 3 to 4 nights maximum as this will give you enough time to visit a few of the area’s most prominent temples, walk around the Fort and perhaps even go on a day trip to one of the islands.

There are only a small handful of what can truly pass as a boutique or luxury hotel in Jaffna, and this is one of them. Jetwing Jaffna is a cozy city hotel located just 5 minutes away from Jaffna Fort. It is a perfect base for city exploration in the area – the beds are comfortable, rooms are clean and staff are helpful.

There is a small bar on the rooftop for the evenings, and the on-site restaurant serves up some delicious food. While the facilities are limited (there is no pool), it is an excellent choice if you’re looking for a slightly more upscale accommodation option in Jaffna. Click here to check rates and availability at Jetwing Jaffna.

Based on positive reviews, you may also want to consider these Jaffna boutique hotels or check out other options in the city:

Fox Jaffna: This boutique hotel in Jaffna offers a swimming pool, traditional colonial-style air-conditioned rooms and past guests found the hotel staff very helpful. Click here to check rates at Fox Jaffna.

Thambu Illam: With just four bedrooms at Thambu Illam, this boutique property is highly reviewed for its peaceful and quiet setting, spacious rooms and walk-able location. There is no on-site restaurant so lunch and dinner are ordered in. Click here to check rates at Thambu Illam.

The Thinnai: A fantastic option for families or friends travelling together, The Thinnai offers several 1 and 2-bedroom suites, a pool and delicious Sri Lankan food at the in-house restaurant. Click here to check rates and availability at The Thinnai.

For even more Sri Lanka hotel recommendations, click here to see 20+ boutique and luxury properties that I recommend!

The best things to do in Jaffna in Sri Lanka

You can see and do a lot in just a few days in Jaffna. Here are some must-see places to visit in Jaffna if you decide to venture northbound to explore this quieter part of Sri Lanka.

1. Day trip to Nainathivu Island

Also known as Nagadeepa, this small island is located a 20-minute ferry ride off the coast of Jaffna. The jetty where the public boats depart from is a 1-hour drive from Jaffna city so you’ll need to set aside half a day for this trip.

Nainathivu or Nainativu is home to two of Jaffna’s most famous temples: the Nagadeepa Buddhist Temple where Buddha is said to have visited to settle a dispute between two brothers over a gem-studded chair, and the Nagapooshani Hindu Temple dedicated to Parvati and Shiva.

The Nagadeepa Temple grounds are home to a sacred Bodhi tree, several statues and shrines as well as a gleaming silver stupa or dagoba.

Photos are not permitted inside the Nagapooshani Hindu Temple, but believe me when I tell you it was an absolute riot of activity and colour.

There is also a food hall behind the main temple where food is served to hundreds of devotees – visitors are welcome to join for lunch. Male visitors must remove their shirts in order to enter the Nagapooshani temple.

The local ferry runs non-stop from about 6 AM to 8 PM and costs 80 Rupees each way. However, the boarding process is non-existent and they often overfill the small boats – it is very stuffy on board and does not make for a comfortable (or particularly safe) journey, though you do get to experience the local mode of transportation.

A less-crowded option would be to charter a private boat for 10,000 LKR for the day – you would need to turn up to the dock and negotiate with the local fishermen.

Planning your trip to Jaffna? Check out Jetwing Jaffna, a cozy city hotel located just 5 minutes away from Jaffna Fort. It is a perfect base for city exploration in the area – the beds are comfortable, rooms are clean and staff are helpful. Click here to check rates and availability at Jetwing Jaffna.

Looking for more highly-rated options? You might also consider Fox Jaffna (boutique hotel with a swimming pool and traditional colonial-style air-conditioned rooms, Thambu Illam (boutique villa with just four bedrooms) or The Thinnai (a fantastic option for families or friends travelling together as it offers 1 and 2-bedroom suites). Check out other highly-rated hotels in Jaffna here.

2. Walk along the ramparts of Jaffna Fort

Along with Galle Fort and Matara Fort, this star-shaped military fort is one of the most iconic landmarks in the country and one of the best sunset spots n Jaffna.

First built by the Portuguese as a square-shaped fortification, it was defended by corner bastions and triple-thick and high walls. The Dutch subsequently demolished the Portuguese Fort in the late 1600s and converted it into the pentagonal shape that it is today.

Jaffna Fort was surrendered to the British by the Dutch without firing a shot in 1795, and remained under British control until Sri Lanka gained independence in 1948. Unlike the Dutch Forts in Galle and Colombo which were fortified towns, Jaffna Fort served an almost exclusively military and administrative function.

Though the fort once contained impressive architectural structures such as the Dutch Reformed Church, Lieutenant-Governor’s Residence and a hospital, much of it was severely damaged during the Civil War and reduced to a pile of rubble.

Today you can walk along the fort ramparts and grounds, and there is a small museum on-site with uncovered artefacts and information about the history of Jaffna Fort. Drone usage requires Department of Defense, Civil Aviation, Central Cultural Fund and Department of Archaeology approval.

Entry for foreign tourists costs approximately 1500 LKR or US$5. Jaffna Fort is open from 7 AM to 6 PM.

You might also like: The Best Things to Do in Galle Fort in Sri Lanka (And Why You Won’t Want to Miss This UNESCO World Heritage Site)

3. Visit Nallur Kandaswamy Devasthanam Hindu Temple

The current temple was founded by just one man, Ragunatha Maapaana Mudaliyar, and his descendants continue to serve as the custodians of Nallur Kandaswamy.

There are more than 500 Hindu temples in Jaffna, but this is one of the most revered in the area. Dedicated to the Hindu deity Kartikeya, the son of Lord Shiva and Parvati, Nallur Kandaswamy is an important place of worship for Sri Lankan Tamils.

When you enter Nallur Kandaswamy temple, you should walk in a clockwise direction – you will walk past many murals depicting Hindu legends, several smaller shrines and prayer areas, a sacred stepwell pond and an inner garden. We were especially fascinated by the practice of praying to sacred trees for fertility and hanging mini wooden cribs on its branches.

Cameras/phones are strictly forbidden inside, shoulders/arms and knees must be covered, and male visitors will need to remove their shirts in order to enter.

4. Stop at the Jaffna Library

Jaffna was once known for its excellent universities – families would send their children to the north for the best education. The literacy rate was extremely high, and because of Catholic missionaries who set up schools in the area many people spoke fluent English.

Once one of the biggest libraries in all of Asia with nearly 100,000 books stocked, the building was sadly burned down in 1981 and again damaged in 1985. Today, it has finally been restored and reopened to the public – it is one of the architectural landmarks of Jaffna city and worth a quick stop to peek in. Photos and videos are not permitted inside.

Planning your Jaffna trip? I recommend checking out Jetwing Jaffna, a cozy city hotel located just 5 minutes away from Jaffna Fort. It is a perfect base for city exploration in the area – the beds are comfortable, rooms are clean and staff are helpful. Click here to check rates and availability at Jetwing Jaffna.

Looking for more highly-rated options in Jaffna? You might also consider Fox Jaffna (boutique hotel with a swimming pool and traditional colonial-style air-conditioned rooms, Thambu Illam (boutique villa with just four bedrooms) or The Thinnai (a fantastic option for families or friends travelling together as it offers 1 and 2-bedroom suites). Check out other highly-rated hotels in Jaffna here.

5. Visit the bustling morning fish market

Open from approximately 6:30-10 AM every morning, Gurunagar Sea Food Market is a covered, open-air market selling fresh seafood from the Jaffna Peninsula.

A true assault to the senses, the bustling market is chock-full of blue swimmer crab, prawns (a steal at 1,200 LKR per kilo!), squid and plenty of fish. It’s a perfect photo stop to get immersed in the somewhat feverish energy in the morning.

6. Taste the “world famous” Rio ice cream

Rio is a huge ice cream and dessert brand in South Asia, and an institution in Jaffna. When we visited at 9 AM in the morning the ice cream shop was already full of people with their sundaes and milkshakes – what I assume is a little post-breakfast treat in the heat!

I enjoyed my uber-sweet plain vanilla scoop of ice cream (an absolute steal at 300 Rupees) but others also tried out the sundaes and triple-scoops. We loved watching the staff steadfastly preparing the various desserts and pass them out at the counter.

7. See the colourful Maruthanarmadam Public Market

I personally love visiting local vegetable and fruit markets when I travel – they are always incredibly colourful and a photographer’s dream!

All of the local produce looked incredibly fresh, from the huge jackfruit and eggplant to the gourd and tomatoes – it is a feast for the eyes.

We were also so happy to say hello to the market vendors, especially this lovely gentleman who still uses the traditional scale to weigh out his produce. He was kind enough to allow us to take his portrait shot!

Planning your trip to Jaffna? We enjoyed our stay at Jetwing Jaffna, a cozy city hotel located just 5 minutes away from Jaffna Fort. It is a perfect base for city exploration – the beds are comfortable, rooms are clean and spacious, and staff are helpful. Click here to check rates and availability at Jetwing Jaffna.

Looking for more highly-rated options? You might also consider Fox Jaffna (boutique hotel with a swimming pool and traditional colonial-style air-conditioned rooms, Thambu Illam (boutique villa with just four bedrooms) or The Thinnai (a fantastic option for families or friends travelling together as it offers 1 and 2-bedroom suites). Check out other highly-rated hotels in Jaffna here.

8. Join a Jaffna crab curry cooking demo

Jaffna is famous for its spicy crab curry, so it only makes sense to take part in a cooking class or demo for this iconic dish! We were shown how to clean and prepare the blue swimmer crab, and the local chef then demonstrated how spices are added to give the curry its vibrant reddish-brown colour.

9. Spend the day on Delft Island

If you have 3 days in Jaffna (or more), you might have time to make the day trip out to Delft Island, or Neduntheevu, one of the area’s most famous coral islands.

On this island you can see houses constructed entirely out of coral – without mortar! The pieces are simply assembled together like a jigsaw puzzle. Delft is also home to wild horses and a small number of residents.

There is only one ferry out to the island in the morning, and one back in the afternoon (around 8 AM and 3 PM but schedules are subject to change), and there are no restaurants out there. Most people bring packed lunches from their hotel for the day trip.

10. Visit the local beaches

Jaffna is not known as a beach destination, but it does have a number of beaches along its shores. Located about an hour from Jaffna city is one such beach – Casuarina Beach. As it is quite some way from the city so if you are on a round-the-island Sri Lanka trip you might want to consider saving your beach time for when you are in southern Sri Lanka instead.

More places to visit in Jaffna

With support from the High Commission of India there is also to be a new 11-storey cultural center bam smack in the center of Jaffna city, right next to the Jaffna Librariy. Construction has already been completed on a state-of-the-art theatre for stage performances, archaeological museum and exhibit spaces. The opening date for the public is to be confirmed, but we were very fortunate to be given a private tour of the building – the view from the top floor (it is the tallest building in Jaffna) is sublime!

Final thoughts – is it worth visiting Jaffna?

One of the things you should know about visiting Sri Lanka is that it is very time consuming to travel around the island. For first-time visitors to Sri Lanka or those who are short on time Jaffna may not be an obvious destination and it is understandable to skip the far north for destinations in the Cultural Triangle or the beaches along the south coast.

The after-effects of the nearly 30-year civil war still linger and can be seen as you occasionally drive by building ruins, dilapidated factories and war cemeteries.

Infrastructure development and tourism development are still lagging and there are very few restaurants and bars for tourists (aside from F&B outlets at hotels like Jetwing Jaffna), and aside from sightseeing and visiting tourism landmarks there is not much else to do as many places close early in the evenings.

If you are looking for a quieter, off-the-beaten-track destination in Sri Lanka and understand that facilities/infrastructure (like toilets!) may be different from what is available elsewhere in more established tourist towns then you are in a better position and mindset to make the most of your time in Jaffna. It is a very chicken-and-egg situation – without more tourists the infrastructure will still be lacking, but until more tourists visit there will be no funds to upgrade the infrastructure.

That being said, it was a unique feeling to be one of just a handful of tourists in the entire town. People in Jaffna are all very friendly but do not approach tourists or stare – there was never a case where I felt like we were attracting any unwanted attention.

Personally, I recommend visiting Jaffna if you are planning a 3-4 week trip to Sri Lanka or if it is not your first time to the island. I would not necessarily call Jaffna a “beginner-friendly” tourist destination so you may either need to enlist the help of an experienced guide or driver to take you around the city. I would also highly recommend first stopping in Anuradhapura or Kalpitiya for a few nights to break up the lengthy journey up north, rather than heading to Jaffna straight from Colombo.

Ready to book your Jaffna trip? Check out Jetwing Jaffna, a cozy city hotel located just 5 minutes away from Jaffna Fort. It is a perfect base for city exploration in the area – the beds are comfortable, rooms are clean and staff are helpful. Click here to check rates and availability at Jetwing Jaffna.

Looking for more highly-rated options? You might also consider Fox Jaffna (boutique hotel with a swimming pool and traditional colonial-style air-conditioned rooms, Thambu Illam (boutique villa with just four bedrooms) or The Thinnai (a fantastic option for families or friends travelling together as it offers 1 and 2-bedroom suites). Check out other highly-rated hotels in Jaffna here.

Where to go after Jaffna

Anuradhapura – The city of Anuradhapura is an ancient capital in Sri Lanka and one of the country’s most sacred pilgrimage destinations. The city was established around what people believe to be a branch of the Bodhi tree where Buddha attained enlightenment, and is about 3.5 hours by car from Jaffna.

Sigiriya – Sigiriya is one of the key destinations within Sri Lanka’s cultural triangle and features a towering rock fortress and sky palace. You can climb the UNESCO World Heritage Site in under an hour and are treated to panoramic views around the rock. From Sigiriya you can also plan a visit to Minneriya or Kaudulla National Parks to see huge herds of wild elephants. Sigiriya is located 5 hours by car from Jaffna.

Colombo – If you are finishing up your Sri Lanka trip and need to head back towards the airport then head back south to Colombo. The transportation hub is located 8-9 hours by car from Jaffna.

Kalpitiya – Popular with kitesurfers, Kalpitiya is also located on the western coast and also offers the opportunity to go whale and dolphin watching. You can also head to Wilpattu National Park for a wildlife safari. Kalpitiya is a 5-6 hour drive from Jaffna.

From Jaffna it is also possible to swing eastbound and head to places like Nilaveli and Trincomalee during the east coast’s peak travel season between about May and September.

I hope this Jaffna travel guide helps you plan your trip to the Northern Province and better understand what to expect!

You might also like:

• Visiting Sri Lanka? Click here for a list of important things you should know before your trip to Sri Lanka as well as the top things NOT to do if you’re visiting the island
• First time visitors should check out this classic 2 week Sri Lanka itinerary, or you can follow this express 1 week “Highlights of Sri Lanka” itinerary if you are short on time
• Need more trip inspiration? These are some of the best places to visit in Sri Lanka
• For even more Sri Lanka travel tips head to see the full collection here

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I was a guest of Destination Sri Lanka and the Northern Province Tourism Bureau during a hosted press trip. However, no compensation was received for this article, and as always, the opinions on Yogawinetravel.com are (and always will be) my own!

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